Will incandescent lights die?
February 20, 2010There’s been a lot of advancement in the field of lighting, particularly solid state lighting with LEDs, but that doesn’t necessarily mean incandescent bulbs will phase out. Consider that they were probably conceived as a way to replace candles, and they excel at that, (heat and light). Also, candles haven’t phased out.
Today’s Applications
Incandescent lights still have a place in the modern world, but not necessarily as a lighting source. They produce light, but most of all, they produce heat. Here are some modern day applications:- Heat Lamps (more examples here and here)
- Reptile Heating and Lighting (more examples here and here)
- Incubation (more examples here and here)
- Easy Bake Oven
- Scentsy (a flameless scented candle)
- Plant Grow Lights
Give Me Heat!
It’s been said that only 5% of the energy going into incandescent light bulbs results in light. 95% of that energy results in heat. I see no reason to refute this, they get hot! Now that’s efficient… for heat production.Other places where people would prefer incandescent bulbs over the newer bulbs would be in cold locations or climates. If you move from Texas to a northern state, you’d probably prefer more heat. If you’re working outside on a cold winter day, those hot halogen work lights feel pretty good.
What about the Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007?
Some might be concerned about the federal bill that phases out incandescent light bulbs between 40 and 150 watts. (See Subtitle B, Sec. 321 in the full text.) However, there seems to be enough exceptions that a simple relabeling could probably circumvent such restrictions. Just because “incandescent light bulbs” may not be sold doesn’t mean “heat bulbs” can’t be sold.Then there’s the burning question of “who is the government to dictate what bulbs I can’t use?” I find it particularly disturbing that the government would do this (among many other things). But, I look forward to LEDs being used in lighting applications, because you get more light per watt of energy.
Reusing the CFL circuit base
February 18, 2010For you hobbyists out there wanting to reuse the parts from a burnt out CLF (compact florescent light), there are some ways to reuse the circuit in the base. With a few steps I’ll show you how to wire up a small florescent light to take it’s place.
Know what Failed
CLF lamps may fail because the filament in the bulb burns out, just like regular incandescent bulbs. If this is the case, the bulb doesn’t produce any light. If the CLF filaments at the base light up, but the rest of the bulb doesn’t, the electronics failed. This means you could use the base of another broken CFL to repair it.Open the Base
First you need to get it open. Some are fairly loose and you can easily use a flat tip screwdriver to pop it open. You might have to use a hacksaw on others and then use a screwdriver. Be careful not to break the bulb.Get to the Circuit Board
Once you have it open, just lift out the circuit board. Next, cut off the wires from the bulb at the circuit board. If you had to use a hacksaw, you may have to cut the wires from the bulb first and then pop out the plastic ring you sawed off.Get a Bulb, Wire It Up
You saw two wires coming from each end of the bulb, right? Now, just get a small florescent light (like one found in a modern camping lantern) and connect it the same way as the other bulb was connected. At this point you probably realize that a compact florescent light is simply a florescent light.Turn It On
Once you have everything connected, turn it on and see if it works! Assuming your bulb is good, there shouldn’t be a problem and it should turn right on. Be careful not to shock yourself!More Experimenting
Try some different types of florescent bulbs and see what works best. Try some in series. Just keep in mind that the filaments at the ends shouldn’t be brighter than the rest of the bulb. They also shouldn’t flicker. If you observe this, you may be using excessive power to light the filaments than the whole bulb requires! Try a smaller bulb.
Is it on, off, or idling and how to tell
February 17, 2010I’m sure most of you have heard or read that some appliances still use electricity when they’re “off.” There is no doubt this is true, but how can you tell? Identifying what’s idling and what isn’t (without paying money for something like a Kill A Watt Monitor) is a good first step.
How much energy is really being wasted?
An idling appliance is something that uses electricity when it’s “off.” When “off,” they could use anywhere from about 5 to 25 watts. Usually these appliances have internal clocks or settings. Unplug the appliance if you don’t care to keep time or settings you may have saved.A disconnected cell phone charger, laptop power supply, or any external power supply not connected doesn’t need to be plugged in. Depending on how they work, they could use anywhere from 0 to 10 or more watts.
Here are the results (in watts) of some measurements I took:
- Nokia cell phone charger (not connected):
0W - Laptop power supply (not connected):
2.5W - Ethernet router power supply (not connected):
8.9W - Cassette deck, “standby” (it’s not labeled “off”):
2.5W - VCR/DVD player, no clock, completely “off”:
5W - Older PlayStation 2 turned “off” from the front button:
6.3W - Older PlayStation 2 turned off from the back switch:
0W - Computer, completely “off”:
10W - Older VCR with clock, completely “off”:
13W - A Sony stereo system with disc changer, cassette deck, and clock, completely “off”:
25W
How can I tell if something is idling?
Common Indicators:
- Lights or a display is still on and working
- It hums or makes any noise when you put your ear right up to it
- It can automatically turn itself on (as through a timing function) if it’s “off”
- It is warm to the touch due to power dissipation
Typical Appliances that Idle when “Off”:
- Desktop computers made after 1995 (or after ATX was introduced)
- Laptops
- Computer monitors and TVs
- VCR/DVD/Blu-ray players
- PlayStation, Xbox, Nintendo, and other gaming systems
- Satellite receivers
- Cell phone chargers
- Answering machines
- Anything that has an external power supply
- Anything that keeps time
Push-Button Switches
Another way to tell if an appliance is idling is by the power button or switch. If the power button is small and requires a gentle push with a subtle “click” or “tap” sound, it likely idles.If the power button feels heavy duty, making a “click-cling” or a “click-clack” sound, it probably doesn’t idle. This is because these switches usually switch the wires straight from the power cord. It’s the equivalent to unplugging it. This is common in much older appliances, especially stereos and amplifiers.
Toggle Switches
If you have an appliance that has a toggle or flip switch like a power strip, it probably doesn’t idle. However, if the switch is small, thin, or light, it might use idle power.Too Much Hype?
Another point I want to get across is don’t be too optimistic. Most idling appliances use very little electricity. Also, new power supply designs continue to increase in efficiency during idle time. Consider that a laptop or cell phone also uses idle electricity when it’s completely “off” (unless you have no battery).Air conditioners and heaters make the meat of your electric bill, not idle power or lighting. Unplugging any one appliance will probably make a negligible difference. It’s when you have several that they have an impact.
Turning off a power strip to everything you’re not using is a good idea. Even the Smart Strip uses some idle power. If you’re still using any incandescent light bulbs, you’ve got a slightly bigger problem than idle power.
Choosing solar panels
February 16, 2010There’s a lot of different solar panels out there, and with so many choices, it would be helpful to know what to look for when buying one. I’m going to explain some of that technical jargon. This way you can better understand how or what panels to use with a given system.
Understanding the Spec./Data Sheet
Let’s say you want to check out a specifications sheet for a solar panel, like this one or this one. As you start looking at the tables, you’ll see terms like:- Polycrystalline silicon (or Multi-crystalline silicon)
- Monocrystalline silicon
- Open Circuit Voltage (Voc)
- Maximum Power Voltage (Vpm) (or Optimum Operating Voltage)
- Short Circuit Current (Isc)
- Maximum Power Current (Ipm) (or Optimum Operating Current)
(As we discuss these terms, keep in mind that voltage and current measurements are usually taken under a consistent test light source. The results should be comparable to good sunlight.)
Vpm and Ipm
These are the most important aspects of the solar panel because they determine power. Both Vpm and Ipm are the ideal maximums at which the solar panel functions. Looking at Ohm’s Law, we know that:- Vpm * Ipm = Power (Watts)
This may seem trivial and basic for some of you, but the point is that you need to know what is being advertized. What is a “12 volt” solar panel? Is it 12 Voc with about 9 Vpm? Or is it 12 Vpm with 18 Voc? I admit, it’s usually the latter, but you need to make sure.
MPPT - Maximum Power Point Tracking
Both Vpm and Ipm establish the maximum power point. When you see a charge controller or grid tie inverter, they may advertise a MPPT (maximum power point tracking) feature. All this means is it searches for Vpm and Ipm to get the most power from your solar panel(s).Voc and Isc
Consider Voc and Isc as the opposite extremes of Vpm and Ipm. Generally, you don’t really need to worry about these. You won’t get any power output at these extremes.Open circuit voltage, or Voc is the voltage measured when the panel isn’t connected, hence “open circuit.” Short Circuit Current, or Isc is the current (amps) measured when the panel is completely shorted, positive to negative.
Poly-crystalline vs. Mono-crystalline Silicon
This makes up the composition of the silicon used in the solar cells of a panel. Silicon is the same material that make up computer chips. You don’t really need to worry about the raw materials that make up a solar panel. But for your interest, here are some key differences:| Composition | Cost | Efficiency | Appearance |
| Poly-crystalline | less | less | usually rectangular or square without rounded corners |
| Mono-crystalline | slightly more | slightly more | usually square with rounded corners |
Buying a simple grid-tie solar system
February 12, 2010If you’ve done any amount of home improvement, then setting up a simple solar system isn’t a challenge. However, it would be good to know a few basics and what parts you need.
Please keep in mind you may have to contact your power company to learn specific code requirements. Where I live, our house wasn’t required to be wired to code; therefore I simply discuss what will work from a technical standpoint.
Jump in Head First
If you want to jump right in and buy a simple low cost package that outlines all the details, here they are:- ASG Power Plus 0.2 kW GT Kit
- ASGP+ Enphase Grid Tied Starter Kit - 175 Watts
- Hi iQ Telecom Ltd (eBay store)
How These Systems Work
These systems are very simple. Think of it as battery charger working in reverse, except the battery is the solar panel. A solar panel is connected to the inverter, which is connected to your breaker box. The inverter is “charging” your house using the solar panel “battery.”If you’re familiar with inverters used in cars for laptops, they are very similar. However, there is a serious difference between a grid tie inverter, and a basic inverter. A grid tie inverter synchronizes with the frequency (60Hz) and phase of the voltage from the power company. (Think of it as two people flipping a switch at the same time, in the same direction.)
Buying Parts Separately
The essential parts you need for a simple grid tie system is a solar panel and an inverter. You need to consider both items at once for a complete working system.Inverter
The inverter is what converts the input VDC (voltage, direct current) from the solar panel to the output VAC (voltage, alternating current) to your home. You need to consider voltage, both input and output. This will determine the voltage of your solar panel and how to connect it in your breaker box.Good inverters can work with a range of voltage input, like 10-30 volts DC or 40-60 volts DC. Output voltage is usually ~120VAC, ~240VAC, or ~208VAC. You need not worry about the last one, it’s for commercial three phase power systems. Check out my article Is solar power really affordable? for additional information.
Power Source
Solar panels come in lots of flavors and output voltages vary widely. (See my article about choosing solar panels for details.) Here’s a list with some common voltages according to open circuit voltage (Voc) and optimum operating voltage (Vmp):- ~18Voc (12Vmp)
- ~36Voc (28Vmp)
- ~58Voc (47Vmp)
- 12V
- 24V
- 48V
Hardware
As for mounting hardware, you could use angle iron or angle aluminum usually available at a local hardware store, Lowe’s, or Home Depot. Wood or angle brackets are other options, but I recommend against duct tape.If you go with a wind generator, tower kits are usually sold separately. You may also have to buy galvanized steel pipe for a guy-wire tower kit. See some examples here.